Isfahan, The Big Easy of the Orient (a.k.a "The Big Fig")

It was a quick, hot ride from Kashan to Isfahan. Dug my ‘Hyperkewl’ cooling vest out of the lower regions of my panniers and what a difference it made (not sponsored yet, but I am ready to start negotiations)! In the dry desert climate these vests make a huge difference to how you feel under your heavy riding jackets. I used them in Southeast Asia before and didn’t find them too effective there, but in a desert climate it’s a must have.

It was my fourth arrival in this mythical city. In 1993 I came here for the first time with my friend Armin Hermann in an old Hanomag 4 wheel-drive truck on our way to Nepal and I was immediately hooked. It all looked and felt like straight out of a fairy tale or the “Medicus”.

Sure, it changed -shopping malls, expressways, major subway construction in progress and lot’s more Iranian tourists, but the old magic places are untouched. Imam Square, Si o Seh Bridge, the Bazar and magnificent Jame Abbasi Mosque are still there in all its glory. The only change I noticed –and it was a bit of a shocker, is that there is no more water in the Zayandeh river, which was the reason to build all the great bridges in the first place.

I got myself a neat little apartment in the city centre and enjoyed shopping and cooking all the yummy stuff they sell here at prices that would get you jailed for price-dumping pretty much everywhere else. Fresh olives, pistachios, dates, figs, cheese, hot bread, honey, fruits I never saw before and all the incredible pastry, pretty much kept me out of restaurants for the whole time I was here –and totally eliminated my need for a belt on my riding trousers, great!

Out of the comfort zone it is again tomorrow – heading straight for the next one.

Shiraz, oh yes the grapes, forget the wine!

Trip Trailer Part1 "Iran 2016" 

"Isfahan nights under the bridge"

And as always, check the bigger, better, uncut pictures in THE GALLERY!